Tarragon: The Epicure’s Herb

Tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus) is to seasoning what the diamond is to jewels: the most brilliant, sophisticated and individual flavoring at the cook’s command. Not that it is to everyone’s taste; it isn’t. Some cooks and connoisseurs prefer the softness of marjoram, or the pungency of rosemary, just as some beauties choose the opalescence of pearls or the depth of emeralds; but none can ignore it. Tarragon is good with meat and meat marinades, with fish and fish sauces. It is the essential ingredient in two of the greatest of sauces, bearnaise and tartare.

Tarragon is a historic herb which traveled from Asia to western Europe. It thrived in France (the French word for tarragon is estragon, a French folk name is herbe au dragon). Tarragon is a perennial plant whose fleshy, twisted roots reminded imaginative early herbers of dragons, hence its Latin name dracunculus, or “little dragon”. The culinary herb we prize today is French tarragon.

There is a story that in England the growing of tarragon was limited to royal gardens until after the time of the Tudors. Henry VIII, both gourmet and gourmand, may have been among the last to enjoy it as a royal prerogative.

From Lore and Legend of the Culinary Herbs and Spices, second edition, The St. Louis Herb Society, 2014, pages 42-44.

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